4.28 8A + 10.25B = 5.7200 Mechanical damages affect the aesthetics and performance of the garment. For the seam specification to be meaningful, the designation of the stitch type has to be added after the designation of the stitched seam. quality & reduce commercial value of the garment.so it is essential Y=logY0 In general, seam performance has a great influence on the garment quality. 0.0256 Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10 Make four cuts of 25 mm length at 10 mm distance from seam, as shown in figure. 0.39 Assuming log Y0 = Y , log a = A , log b = B , we have Y =BX2 + A 4.70 There are different fit-types for garment items that range from the slim and form-fitting to oversized [5]. THREAD NEEDLE: - 14 0.6857 ), chemical treatments of the fabric (softness, dyes, finishing, washing), sewing needle number, design and sewing machine settings [12]. X2 0.20 1 established as an international standard and most apparel industries follow this 0.09 TABLE NO.-10 One of the most popular of this class is the Lap felled type, involving only one stitching operation a strong seam with fabric edges commonly used to protect jeans or similar garments from fraying. 3.564118246 used for sewing and excessive use of fabric 4 The standard recommends at least one grip to be mounted on the grip with a universal joint in order to allow the grip to rotate in the plane of the specimen. 5.47 X1 4.3318 A high sewing needle penetration force means that the fabric has a high resistance and so there is a high risk of damage. 5.7200 3. 7 Poly. 240.90 As PhD students, we found it difficult to access the research we needed, so we decided to create a new Open Access publisher that levels the playing field for scientists across the world. Brief introduction to this section that descibes Open Access especially from an IntechOpen perspective, Want to get in touch? Y*XGC 0.1010 The measurement of seam slippage from the ASTM 1683-04 standard is well 6 4). 3.08 0.8567 research work fabric sample 2000 2.8023 1.4268 Sewing needle penetration force was affected by the weave type, yarn type and fabric density. 0.007225 X1 Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10 1585.6872 5.7200 0.5966 Subjective and objective techniques are the most common techniques to measure seam pucker. The exponential equation is Y0=aX1b 1. 3 Out of which lapped seam is one of the strongest seam. FACTOR & SEAM SLIPPAGE STRENGTH The seam is defined as a juncture at which two or more planar structures, such as textile fabrics, are joined by sewing, usually near the edge. 7 Without For any queries please get in touch at - akashsdeshmukh96@gmail.com, Marketing Department In Textile And Fashion Industry-With Marketing Mix & 7Ps. Y*X2 PROCESS PARAMETER Using fitting exponential curve we get the following table 5.673146542 Correlation equation we get 27.02 m2)(Y0) higher degree of frictional force. These cookies are necessary for the website to function and cannot be switched off in our systems. 5 ASTM 1683-04 standard for evaluation of seam quality. 64.60 4.28 2.0406 4.07 4.70 2.02 Y0=9.27X32.29------------(3.3) Each stitched seam is identified by a numerical designation composed of five digits. With 439.41126 Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10 2. ASTM D1683 Fabric Seam Strength Testing - ADMET 5. Y0 = 416.45X33 - 226.84X32 + 40.162X3 + 2.0721. While before the break there is an unacceptable opening in the stitch which makes the stitch failed even if there is no visible break. 3 As previously described, when the seam itself is strong (resistant thread, high stitch density) the fabric may fail first, either by slippage (behaviour type 2 or 3 as classified by Gribaa et al., 2006 ), or by rupture (type 4 behaviour). improperly with insufficient stitches per inch. 3.95 16.74 Eight seam types are specified in ISO 4916:1991 Textiles-Seam Types-Classification and Terminology standard, which are as follows: Class 1Superimposed seam, Class 2Lapped seam, Class 3Bound seams, Class 4Flat seams, Class 5Decorative/Ornamental stitching, Class 6Edge finishing/neatening, Class 7Attaching of separate items, Class 8Single ply construction, Class 7Attaching of separate items and Class 8Single ply construction [8]. according to fitting normal curve 14.6033 TOTAL If you receive this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from any computer. 0.6096 TABLE NO.-6 Working Areas - Apparel Merchandising, Fashion Retail Management, Garment Manufacturing || 0.7727 0.6096 Cover factor Journal of Engineering Sciences Vol. The sewing machine needles caused damages when a sewn seam assembly is used for a woven fabric. 4 The L&M Sewability tester enabled consecutive readings of force for penetration of fabric by a selected needle without sewing thread at a rate of 100rpm. 0.8567 2. Finish There is only ever one component to this type of seam. 18.83 0.6314 Cotton and silk are not thermoplastic, but degrade at around 400C. weft threads pulling apart, but not yarn breakage. 0.8921 While stitching we have to decide which feed mechanism is to choose accordingly to the fabric. In this study, the importance of the seam performance of garments is investigated. Record the of seam strength and the seam elongation. help stabilize the 0.6314 Introduction Fabrics made from both natural and manufactured fibres have been extensively used for clothing, decoration and industrial applications. Pattern, design or fabric requirements for the garment determine which seam allowance will be used. Evaluation of Sewing Performance of Plain Twill and Satin Fabrics Based On S Abrasion resistance and pilling attitude of fleece fabric. 0.37 4.00 18.46 AP-4-13 4 STRENGTH(Kg/c COEFFICIENT 5 Increasing SPI is one of the most effective solution to avoid seam slippage. Consider the readings when rupture occurred due to, If you have any doubts, please don't hesitate to ask, An Overview of Textile Industry Today we are having all the things related to textile . 0.9889 0.5191 Seam type FSc-1 is formed by turning and abutting the turned edges of two plies of material and seaming with a row of stitches extending across and covering the turned edges of the material. Stitch type 201 is formed with two needle threads which passed through the material in the same perforations from opposite directions without interlacing or interlooping. 8A + 1169.35B = 5.7200 15.00 73.90 Seam type BS (bound seam) has 18 different subgroups. 6.00 5.97 Seam Opening(mm) 4.85 Correlation ASIF SHAIKH Hence, it is important to be familiar with various seam types, their applications and variations available so that you can choose the right seam to suit your sewing needs. Stitch types are shown in Table 1. 8602.00601 As per description the equations The simplest of these operations is Serging, Type 6.01.01, in which a cut edge of a single ply is reinforced by over edge stitching to neaten and prevent fraying. we get, 0.7757 3.95 So resulted seam does not gain expected strength. In the 0.74 Seam strength refers to the force at which the stitch ends to tear or when the fabric breaks. The looped seam is the most commonly used seam. 2 y = 9E-08x3 + 3E-05x2 - 0.001x + 4.176 But in areas that need extra fabric for the final fitting for the wearer seam allowances can be 1inch or more. Y0) (R20) 3.95 1.723861 Experimental analysis on the effect of fabric structures and seam Heat is transferred through the needle-bar to other sewing machine parts, to fabric around the needle, and to the sewing thread in the needle. Before conducting ASTM D1683, it is important to read the entire specification in the relevant ASTM publication. XGC2 Seam strength referes to the strength when seam finally ruptures or when the fabric breaks. 0.126025 Seams in modern mass-produced apparel, footwear, house hold textiles and sporting goods are sewn by industrial sewing machines. 47349.76 168.7992 Seam strength can be measured by two standards , Lets see the procedure for BS EN ISO 13935-1 (Strip method). The fitting comfort of the garment in use mainly depends on the elasticity of the seam. 9.Reference. The exponential equation is Y0=abX1 4 Seams are classified according to the type/number of components used. 1.97 no:- 4 In this feed mechanism their are bottom feed and variable top feed working together to get the best stitching for slippery fabric. It is critical to choose the correct sewing needle size for the correct sewing machine, sewing thread and fabric weight. This produces a neat edge on a seam exposed to view or to wear. (2.1) 20.96 By solving this above two equation 18480.9773 Y0=3.42*5.96X3------------(3.2) GSM*cover The middle range of the stitch length for a zig-zag stitch is 2.5mm and stitch width is 3 or 4mm. 0.10 Loops of needle thread are passed through the material and interlaced with the bobbin thread. The clamping device of the machine shall be positioned with the central point of the two jaws in the line of the applied force, the front edges shall be at right angles to the line of applied force and their clamping faces shall be in the same plane. Stitch is defined as a loop of thread or yarn resulting from the single pass or movement of the needle in sewing. 0.5966 combination. 5.47 346A + 26462.28B = 278.2560 3.2 In general, the more thread consumed in a stitch, the stronger the seam. where ts is the seam thickness and 2tf is the fabric thickness. 2.1818 1.7842 SEAM SLIPPAGE Y0=9.27X32.29------------(3.3), SEAM SLIPPAGE STRENGTH In clothing construction, seams are classified by their type (plain, lapped, bound, flat) and position in the finished garment (centre back seam, inseam, side seam). Appearance and performance of the seams are dependent upon the stitch and seam types, stitch densities, sewing machine settings and quality of sewing threads. 50.00 slippage to take place. Seam efficiencies of 6080% are common, but efficiencies between 80 and 90% are more difficult obtaining from garment seams. Seam type FS (flat seam) has six different subgroups. 7.3671 Thickness 1041.7514 Y=logY0 1.4195 1.0788 1 Prof. Anirban dutta, to seam slippage 1.497323403 Basically their are 6 main types of feeding namely, v. Differential bottom and top variable feed. fabric, rpm of the machine, GSM of the fabric , 5.7200 58032.81 7.00 We use cookies to personalise content and ads, to provide social media features and to analyse our traffic. 1.2814 Stitch and seam types and seam parameters must be selected correctly in order to obtain a quality seam. 1. Seam performance of a garment also depends on structural and mechanical properties of the fabric and strength, extensibility, security, durability, appearance and efficiency of the seams. equation we get -0.6441 WOVEN TABLE FOR REALTIONSHIP BETWEEN GSM & SEAM During the stitching, heat is dissipated from the needle. Seams may be sewn or constructed derived by taking some sample and calculation of standard error. 7.19 0.30 (GSM*cover factor) (x1*x2) vs. Seam slippage strength(y0) 1.81 Clamp a test specimen centrally so that its longitudinal central line passes through the centre point of the front edges of the jaw and the force is applied perpendicularly to the seam in the middle of the gauge length. seam strength, seam slippage, seam puckering and yarn severance. 6.00 method to evaluate seam slippage. 0.9004 73.90 Assuming log y0 = y , log a = a , log b = b , we have y =bx3 + a 3 According to AATCC 88B Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering standard, seam appearance is classified into five grades: grade 1 refers to the worst fabric which is heavily puckered and grade 5 refers to smooth fabric with little pucker or no pucker at all. 4.28 8 Seam thickness decreased as thread tensions and linear stitch density increased. 4.07 correlation between seam slippage strength with GSM with a value In general, seam performance has a great influence on garment products. 8.00 1.603378 In sewing, a seam is the join where two or more layers of fabric, leather, or other materials are held together with stitches. 3.34 240.90 Seam types are shown as an alphanumeric designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric positioning and rows of stitching in a seam. 6.Result analysis We also got an excellent cc with value 0.95(table no: - 10) 5.4 1 Resistance to slippage of yarns in woven fabrics can be measured according to ASTM D 434-75 Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam standard [6]. 18.46 Size of the garment does not be large or small to their bodies. PDF Seam slippage and seam strength behavior of elastic woven - CORE log Y0 = log a + (x1)log b A universal testing machine capable of performing a tensile adhesion test at a constant-rate-of-extensionis required to run the test at a 305 10 mm/min (12.0 0.5 in./min) grip separation rate. There is another term called 'yarn slippage' which measures the shifting of warp yarn over weft yarn to render the garment unusuable. Metals Tensile Testing Concepts, Equations, And Theory, Tennis Ball Deformation/Compression Testing. to SEam 217.60 _ Seam slippage = Seam slippage may occur in a garment or household item for different reasons, including; A low number of warp or weft threads in relation to particular yarn and fabric construction characteristics. equation we get equation we get 129.45 3.95 Y*X -0.3551 The long stitch length, the fewer each inch, therefore the looser the seam. These two factors together and their performance properties add to the quality of the apparel products. 18.46 Increasing seam allowance gives more amount of fabric to be involved in seam formation, due to which seam gets more stronger with increased strength. In general, increase in fabric extensibility leads to decrease in seam slippage load and seam strength in weft direction. STRENGTH(Kg/c 0.8921 8 Many factors affect the level of seam strength. (3.1), of exponential equation for cover factor(x2) vs. Y=logY0 1. 0.7757 GSM*thickn makes the fabric yarns to be more slippery and also reduces XGT2 4.28 SL. As per description the equations 19.8 73.90 Fabric structure has an important effect on seam damages too [26]. GSM(GM/M2) SLIPPAGE Sewing speed has the greatest influence on the needle temperature. Y0 = 416.45X33 - 226.84X32 + 40.162X3 + 2.0721. Seam efficiency is the ratio of seam strength to fabric strength. 4.85 equations according to fitting 4.00 4.28 3.95 7.11 According to (Behera et al., 1997a; Behera & Sharma, 1998; Tarafdar et al., A zig-zag stitch or overlock stitch has length and width. 7.00 Sewing needle-related damage due to sewing in fabrics is another important factor affecting seam efficiency. ess (x) 833.91 correlation. Six seam types are specified in the ASTM D 6193-97 Standard Practices for Stitches standard and eight seam types are specified in ISO 4916:1991 Textiles-Seam Types-Classification and Terminology standard. 1.31 6 8.50 4134.49 2 All information these cookies collect is aggregated and therefore anonymous. between (xgc& Used to create neat load bearing seams for lingerie, shirts, etc. 18.83 Seam slippage is defined as that which occurs when the yarns in the fabric pull out of the seam at the edge or, alternatively, where the threads of a fabric begin to pull away from the stitching in a seam [12]. 19.9187 0.6314 4.70 The elasticity of a sewn seam depends on fabric type and strength, stitch and seam type, stitch density (SPI) and sewing thread elasticity [7]. 0.5527 SL. 0.5966 10.5678 13.04942 Seams are finished with a variety of techniques to prevent ravelling of raw fabric edges and to neaten the inside of garments. High needle heat causes thermal damages on the fabric. Seam type SSa-2 is formed by superimposing two or more plies of material and seaming them with one or more rows of 301 or 401 stitches a specified distance from their edges. -0.6387 Company number: 103548. -0.41 2.44 1.27 FACTOR (X2) Fibre, yarn and fabric composition, structure and properties and their processing parameters, finishing, laundering and seam allowance are affected seam slippage. 25.6661 Stop the machine as soon as the seam breaks. Such factors mean that one set of yarns may be easily pulled through the other. Seam strength. Stitch type 301 is formed with two threads, one needle thread and one bobbin thread. For thus we need to also calculate fabric strength. 0.6314 As per description the equations More complex types include various forms of piping, producing a raised line along the fabric surface. Fabric type and weight. 5.00 18.46 4.85 11.18 1.2752 According to Eq. 1.00 50.495236 influencing seam slippage or seam slippage strength for Fabric Sample No: 6 4798.4100 Different seam angles affect seam strength too. 91.98 0.16 4.70 Its the stitches used to make such a line. STRENGTH(Kg/cm2) 0.50 Below is one formula that was developed for estimating the seam strength on )(y0) Mathematical relationship and graphical Stitch 1012 per inch is considered normal for most quilting styles and yields the best stitch quality as well. 8A + 11.18B = 5.7200 0.863724562 according to fitting normal curve by least Table woven fabrics. SL. Y0 By:- Bharani M., Shiyamaladevi P.S.S. Evaluation of physico mechanical properties of 11 interlock cotton knitted f An Investigation on Different Physical Properties of Cotton Woven Fabrics, Implementation of Six Sigma: A case in Textile Industry. By solving this above two 27.02A + 91.98B = 19.5542 The range of the stitch length is between 0 and 5mm on most sewing machines. 3.7 In recent years, many techniques have been developed by researchers to measure seam pucker. Take the average of readings to get the seam strength. Licensee IntechOpen. This seam class involves seams that require the addition of another component onto the edge of a piece of fabric e.g., elastic braid onto the edge of ladies briefs. 1519.16 Get all latest content delivered straight to your inbox. 1.32 6 types of sewing thread s and their affect, construction on the above mentioned 92.75 2 By solving this above two equation 3177.6766 833.91 19.3 A superimposed seam can be sewn with Stitch Types 301 or 401 to create a simple seam. By Sena Cimilli Duru, Cevza Candan and Banu Uygun Ner By Shajahan Maidin, See Ying Chong, Ting Kung Heing, IntechOpen Limited Gauge length is distance between two jaws which 200 mm. -5.60 Link:- http://cameron.econ.ucdavis.edu/excel/ex01access.html The grade of fabric is the grade of the reference specimen which matches most nearly to sample fabric specimen [24]. Y0 = 0.0391X23 - 2.1304X22 + 37.908X2 - 214.39. 6000 The equation no. 3.00 very badly. we get, Seam type EFa-1 is produced by turning the edge of the material and stitching the turned portion to the body of the material with one or more rows of stitches. (3.1), of exponential equation constants (series 1) for By increasing SPI means by increasing more stitches per inch the strength of the seam will increase so that seam opening wont be happen. 5 Stitch type 500 has 22 different subgroups. 3 Sewing needle penetration force and fabric deformation during sewing are effective factors for seam performance. 4.07 Loops of the needle threads are passed through the material where they are looped with looper thread on the underside. Seam slippage, which affects the sewn seam, can also be measured by subtracting the elongation of the fabric from that of the fabric with a seam in it. The sample fabrics are sewn as per standard procedures, and the appearance of the seam is compared with standard reference specimens.